simple hardwired dashcam

by:Maction     2019-10-25
Hello everyone!
In today\'s project I will install a high quality dashboardcam for my car.
I will use my own car (
2010 Mitsubishi Lanser GTS)
But this setting works for almost any vehicle.
Although most people
Cam manufacturers recommend powering the dashboard using 12 v accessory slots
Cam, this method eliminates the use of wires that are not needed inside the car.
Dashboard via hard wiring-
Connect the cam to the fuse block of the car, you can hide the wire and still have access to the 12 v accessory slot.
Three main components are required for this setting.
A Dashcam powered by 5 v USB (
I\'m using Anker Roav C1 Pro)
Since my car is stored in the underground parking lot, I can choose a dash
Cam with lithium ion battery.
Depending on where you live, you can choose a camera that is resistant to extreme temperatures.
Dash from different companies-
Cam with capacitor that can withstand higher temperature.
12 v to 5 v voltage converter I use a converter designed specifically for automotive wiring.
Wide input range of DC8-
This version has 2 usb outputs as I also have a rear facing camera (optional)
The fuse tap kit is different for each car, so in order to find the size of the fuse blade, please refer to the owner\'s manual of your car.
Finally, you need all kinds of tools.
Before your hard wiring
Cam to your car, you need to find a reliable power supply that is inside my car fuse block which is under the steering wheel and above the knee airbag.
There are two screws that hold the plastic cover covering the fuse block.
To prevent the dash-
Cam from running out of the car\'s battery, you need to find a power supply that is turned off with the car.
According to the user manual, fuse slot 13 supplies power to the accessory socket with a capacity of 15 am ps.
Once I found slot 13, I replaced the 15 amp fuse blade with the \"Add Circuit\" fuse tap line.
With this new circuit, when 5-
Amp Fuse blade power dashboardcam.
For grounding circuits, you can connect wires from any metal, unpainted surface inside the car.
Since the circuit has an output voltage of 12 volts, it is necessary to convert the voltage to match the dash-
5 v requirements for Cam.
After accessing 12 v from slot 13 of the lanycer fuse block, we can power the voltage converter.
Wiring is extremely simple!
The red positive line from the fuse splitter is connected to the red positive voltage converter line.
The black negative pole from the voltage converter is attached to any unpainted metal surface in the car.
Once these connections are complete, you can run the wires along the left side of the fuse block, the side airbag, and the back of the top of the windshield.
This voltage converter has two outputs (
Micro usb and mother usb).
Once I connect the dashboard camera to usb, it opens and starts recording immediately.
I also have an extension cable to power the second rear facing camera, but this is completely optional and the dash cam is mounted on top of the windshield using 3 m mounting tape (included).
If you would like to see more videos like this, please consider subscribing to my YouTube channel.
If you do this project or have suggestions, be sure to leave your comments below.
Finally, thank you for your support.
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